Buying guide
Trad Starter Concepts
Updated How we research
A first trad rack is an investment, so every piece should earn its place. This collection lays out the foundation: comfortable crack climbing shoes, a full set of nuts and stoppers, cams that cover the most common sizes, slings for extending placements and building anchors, dependable locking carabiners, and a personal anchor system for cleaning routes safely. The page is split into six sections (Crack Climbing Shoes; Nuts and Stoppers; Cam Sets; Climbing Slings; Locking Carabiners; Personal Anchor Systems), followed by every pick ranked by our score so you can compare them in one place.
The short version
We compared 24 picks. Our scores range from 6.5 to 9.4 out of 10.
- Best overall:Black Diamond Classic Stopper Set #4-13 Durable Aluminum Nuts Color-Coded. Highest overall score in this guide at 9.4/10.
- Also great value:Metolius Personal Anchor System - 22 Black/Yellow. Value score of 9/10, overall 8.6/10.
- Solid build:La Sportiva TC Pro Climbing Shoe - Men's. Build and materials score of 9/10, overall 8.9/10.
- Feature-rich:La Sportiva Mens TC Pro Rock Climbing Shoes (2024). Features score of 8/10, overall 8.9/10.
Scores are our editorial assessment, not customer ratings. How we score
Crack Climbing Shoes
- La Sportiva TC Pro Climbing Shoe - Men'sOur score8.9/10
- La Sportiva Mens TC Pro Rock Climbing Shoes (2024)Our score8.9/10
- La Sportiva Mens Mythos Eco Rock Climbing Shoe, Taupe, 7Our score8.2/10
- La Sportiva Womens Mythos Eco Rock Climbing Shoe - Full Lace-Up for Comfort and VersatilityOur score7.8/10
Nuts and Stoppers
- Black Diamond Classic Stopper Set #4-13 Durable Aluminum Nuts Color-CodedOur score9.4/10
- Black Diamond Offset Micro Stopper 1 to 6 SetOur score8.6/10
- Wild Country Superlite Offset Rocks Stoppers - Anodized Rock Climbing Nuts 5-10Our score8.6/10
- DoMyfit Climbing Wallnut Nuts Set Rock Stopper Set Pack of 12pcsOur score6.5/10
Cam Sets
- Black Diamond Camalot C4 #1 RedOur score8.3/10
- Black Diamond Camalot Size 0.4 Climbing Active ProtectionOur score7.8/10
- Wild Country Friend Rock Climbing Cams 0.3 Lightweight Double-Axle Active ProtectionOur score7.8/10
- CAMP Nylon TriCam #2.0 Climbing Passive ProtectionOur score7.4/10
Climbing Slings
- Sterling 12mm Dyneema Climbing Sling Sewn RunnerOur score8.3/10
- NewDoar Climbing Sling 10mm Dyneema Sling Runners 22KN 4840LBOur score8.0/10
- XINDA 16mm Nylon Sling Climbing Runner 22kN CE UIAA Certified Sewn RunnerOur score7.8/10
- CAMNAL Climbing Sling UIAA CE Certified 16mm Nylon Sling 22KNOur score7.8/10
Locking Carabiners
- BLACK DIAMOND RockLock Screwgate Locking Belay/Rappelling Carabiner, BlackOur score8.6/10
- Petzl William Carabiner - Large, Pear-Shaped Locking Carabiner for Belay Stations - Screw-LockOur score8.6/10
- EDELRID HMS Strike Locking Carabiner - Triple Lock Silver/IcemintOur score8.6/10
- PETZL Omni Screw-Lock CarabinerOur score7.4/10
Personal Anchor Systems
- Metolius Personal Anchor System - 22 Black/YellowOur score8.6/10
- Metolius Dynamic PAS - Green/Red 38 InchOur score8.6/10
- Sterling Rope Chain Reactor, Black, 40 InchOur score8.6/10
- Metolius Alpine PAS SlingOur score8.1/10
All 24 picks, ranked by our score
Every product from the sections above, listed once. Sort by the criterion you care about most, or tick up to three to compare.
#1Black Diamond's Classic Stopper Set in sizes #4-13, color-coded aluminum nuts for building a trad rack.
Fit for the job 10/10 · Features and specs 9/10 · Build and materials 9/10 · Value 9/10
- + Sizes 4 to 13 cover a wide range of crack widths
- + Color-coded aluminum nuts make choosing the right size faster
- + Durable build suits beginners and experienced trad climbers
- - Small cracks may still need micro nuts in addition
- - A nut tool makes cleaning placements much easier and is sold separately
#2The men's La Sportiva TC Pro is a high-top, stiff, flat shoe designed for long crack climbs and big granite walls.
Fit for the job 10/10 · Features and specs 8/10 · Build and materials 9/10 · Value 8/10
- + High-top cuff protects ankles when jamming feet into cracks
- + Stiff, flat sole supports long days on edges and in finger to hand cracks
- + Well-known choice for multi-pitch trad routes and big walls
- - Stiff build feels clunky on steep sport routes and gym overhangs
- - High-top design is warmer and bulkier than low-cut shoes
#3La Sportiva's men's TC Pro (2024) is the updated high-top crack and trad shoe for long multi-pitch granite routes.
Fit for the job 10/10 · Features and specs 8/10 · Build and materials 9/10 · Value 8/10
- + 2024 version updates a trusted crack shoe with the same high-top protection
- + Flat, supportive design stays comfortable for long trad and big wall days
- + Padded high cuff shields ankles from abrasion in wide cracks
- - Updated model may fit slightly differently, so earlier sizing may not carry over
- - Not suited to steep, pocketed or overhanging sport climbing
#4Black Diamond's Offset Micro Stopper set in sizes 1 to 6, small offset nuts for thin cracks and flaring placements.
Fit for the job 9/10 · Features and specs 8/10 · Build and materials 9/10 · Value 8/10
- + Offset shape fits flaring and pin-scarred cracks better
- + Sizes 1 to 6 cover thin cracks where normal nuts will not fit
- + Black Diamond micro nuts are a trad staple for hard routes
- - Micro nuts hold less force than larger stoppers
- - Best for experienced trad climbers who can judge thin placements
#5Wild Country's Superlite Offset Rocks in sizes 5-10, anodized offset nuts for a lighter trad rack.
Fit for the job 9/10 · Features and specs 8/10 · Build and materials 9/10 · Value 8/10
- + Offset design grips flaring cracks and irregular placements
- + Superlite build reduces weight for long trad routes
- + Sizes 5 to 10 cover mid-range crack widths
- - Smaller cracks need additional micro nuts
- - Offset nuts can be trickier to place for beginners
#6Black Diamond's RockLock screwgate in black, a pear-shaped locking carabiner for belaying and rappelling.
Fit for the job 9/10 · Features and specs 8/10 · Build and materials 9/10 · Value 8/10
- + Pear shape gives room for a Munter hitch or GRIGRI loading
- + Screwgate is simple to use and easy to check visually
- + Black Diamond build quality for regular belay use
- - Screwgate can loosen if not checked during long sessions
- - Heavier than lightweight wiregate lockers
#7Petzl's William large pear-shaped screw-lock carabiner, made for belay stations and holding several knots.
Fit for the job 9/10 · Features and specs 8/10 · Build and materials 9/10 · Value 8/10
- + Large pear shape holds multiple ropes and a Munter hitch easily
- + Screw-lock gate is simple to operate with gloves
- + Great for building anchors on multi-pitch belays
- - Large size adds weight to the rack
- - Can be too roomy for a GRIGRI to sit neatly
#8EDELRID's HMS Strike triple lock carabiner in silver and icemint, an auto-locking pear locker for belaying.
Fit for the job 9/10 · Features and specs 8/10 · Build and materials 9/10 · Value 8/10
- + Triple lock closes automatically for added security
- + HMS shape suits Munter hitches and belay devices
- + Icemint color helps identify it on a harness
- - Triple lock can be slower to open with cold hands
- - Heavier than simple screwgate lockers
#9Metolius Personal Anchor System in black and yellow, a daisy-style tether with full-strength loops for anchors.
Fit for the job 9/10 · Features and specs 8/10 · Build and materials 8/10 · Value 9/10
- + Every loop is full strength, unlike traditional daisy chains
- + Multiple loops let you adjust your distance from the anchor
- + Metolius PAS is a well-known standard for multi-pitch and rappelling
- - Static nylon can shock load if you fall onto a slack tether
- - Loops add clutter to the harness when not in use
#10Metolius Dynamic PAS in green and red at 38 inch, a dynamic rope tether that absorbs more energy than nylon slings.
Fit for the job 9/10 · Features and specs 8/10 · Build and materials 9/10 · Value 8/10
- + Dynamic rope construction absorbs energy better than static slings
- + 38 inch length gives room to reach bolts and anchor points
- + Colored loops make it easy to identify clip-in points
- - Bulkier than sewn nylon or Dyneema tethers on the harness
- - Longer length can dangle and catch while climbing
#11Sterling's Chain Reactor in black at 40 inch, a full-strength loop tether for anchoring at belays and rappel stations.
Fit for the job 9/10 · Features and specs 8/10 · Build and materials 8/10 · Value 9/10
- + Full-strength sewn loops allow flexible anchor distance
- + 40 inch length suits most climbers for rappels and belays
- + Sterling is a respected rope and sling manufacturer
- - Static material means you must avoid slack and falls on the tether
- - Black color is harder to spot than bright tethers on a busy harness
#12Black Diamond's Camalot C4 #1 in red, a staple finger-to-hand cam for trad climbers building a rack.
Fit for the job 9/10 · Features and specs 7/10 · Build and materials 9/10 · Value 8/10
- + C4 design offers wide range and reliable holding power
- + Red size #1 is one of the most used cams on many routes
- + Black Diamond durability for frequent trad climbing
- - Single cam requires buying several sizes for a rack
- - Heavier than some ultralight cam designs
#13Sterling's 12mm Dyneema sewn runner, a light and strong sling for trad racks, anchors and alpine climbing.
Fit for the job 9/10 · Features and specs 7/10 · Build and materials 9/10 · Value 8/10
- + 12mm Dyneema is light yet easier to handle than ultra-thin slings
- + Sterling is a trusted US maker of ropes and slings
- + Great for slinging horns, trees and extending cams
- - Check the sling length suits your rack before buying
- - Dyneema should not be used as a static tether for shock loads
#14La Sportiva Mythos Eco is a men's lace-up shoe with a flat last and low asymmetry, listed as a fit for crack climbing and long multi-pitch routes.
Fit for the job 9/10 · Features and specs 8/10 · Build and materials 8/10 · Value 7/10
- + Flat last, low asymmetry and low-profile toes are described as a neutral shape for crack climbing
- + Soft, unlined leather upper is listed as molding to the foot for comfort on long routes
- + Listing states 95 percent recycled components and a metal-free tanned leather upper
- - Listing says it fits big and advises ordering one full size smaller, so sizing needs care
- - Neutral shape gives less edging power than a stiffer, more downturned shoe
#15Metolius Alpine PAS sling, a lighter personal anchor system for alpine climbers who want fewer grams on the harness.
Fit for the job 9/10 · Features and specs 7/10 · Build and materials 8/10 · Value 8/10
- + Lighter version of the PAS for long alpine and multi-pitch routes
- + Full-strength loops allow easy distance adjustment at stations
- + Packs smaller on the harness than the standard PAS
- - Thinner material may wear faster when rubbed over rock
- - Still static, so avoid climbing above the anchor on it
#16NewDoar's 10mm Dyneema sling runners rated 22KN (4840LB), light slings for extending protection and building anchors.
Fit for the job 8/10 · Features and specs 8/10 · Build and materials 7/10 · Value 9/10
- + 10mm Dyneema is light and packs down small on a trad rack
- + 22KN rating is clearly printed for anchor and runner use
- + Useful for extending placements to reduce rope drag
- - Dyneema has low melting point, so avoid rope running over it
- - Knotting thin Dyneema weakens it more than nylon slings
#17The women's La Sportiva Mythos Eco is a full lace-up comfort shoe that handles cracks, slabs and long trad days.
Fit for the job 8/10 · Features and specs 7/10 · Build and materials 8/10 · Value 8/10
- + Full lace-up closure molds to the foot for secure jams in thin cracks
- + Women's last fits lower-volume feet better than the unisex or men's version
- + Comfort-first shape can be worn for whole multi-pitch routes
- - Flat profile is not built for steep sport or overhanging boulders
- - Low cut offers no ankle protection when jamming wide cracks
#18Black Diamond's Camalot in size 0.4, a single cam for thin hand cracks and finger cracks on trad routes.
Fit for the job 8/10 · Features and specs 7/10 · Build and materials 9/10 · Value 7/10
- + Camalot design is a benchmark for reliable active protection
- + Size 0.4 fits thin cracks common on many trad routes
- + Durable build handles years of trad use
- - Single cam, so it is one piece of a larger rack
- - Premium price per piece compared with budget cams
#19Wild Country's Friend cam in size 0.3, a lightweight double-axle cam for thin cracks.
Fit for the job 8/10 · Features and specs 7/10 · Build and materials 9/10 · Value 7/10
- + Double-axle design gives a wider range than single-axle cams
- + Size 0.3 fits thin cracks where nuts may not hold
- + Lightweight build reduces rack weight
- - Single cam only, so a full rack needs many sizes
- - Double-axle cams can be bulkier in very thin cracks
#20XINDA's 16mm nylon sewn runner rated 22kN and CE UIAA certified, a budget sling for anchors and extensions.
Fit for the job 8/10 · Features and specs 7/10 · Build and materials 7/10 · Value 9/10
- + 16mm nylon holds knots well and is easy to handle
- + CE UIAA certification and 22kN rating meet standard safety requirements
- + Nylon absorbs a little more energy than Dyneema slings
- - Wider nylon is bulkier and heavier on the harness than Dyneema
- - Budget brand with less proven long-term durability
#21CAMNAL's 16mm nylon climbing sling rated 22KN with UIAA CE certification, a sturdy runner for anchors.
Fit for the job 8/10 · Features and specs 7/10 · Build and materials 7/10 · Value 9/10
- + 22KN nylon sling is strong and easy to tie into anchors
- + UIAA CE certified for peace of mind in climbing use
- + 16mm webbing resists abrasion on rough rock edges
- - Heavier than Dyneema slings for alpine and trad racks
- - Length details are missing from the title
#22CAMP's nylon TriCam #2.0, a passive protection piece that fits pockets and irregular cracks.
Fit for the job 7/10 · Features and specs 6/10 · Build and materials 8/10 · Value 9/10
- + TriCam shape fits pockets and flares where cams struggle
- + Lightweight passive piece adds versatility to a rack
- + CAMP design is proven for trad climbers
- - TriCams take practice to place and clean correctly
- - Not as fast to place as a spring-loaded cam
#23Petzl's Omni screw-lock carabiner, a semi-circle locker designed for closing harness belay points and rope work.
Fit for the job 7/10 · Features and specs 7/10 · Build and materials 9/10 · Value 7/10
- + Semi-circle shape is useful for joining harness attachment points
- + Screw-lock gate gives a secure closure for rigging tasks
- + Petzl quality for rope access and rescue use
- - Not the best shape for everyday belay device use
- - Screw-lock is slower to open than auto-locking gates
#24DoMyfit's Wallnut-style rock stopper set with 12pcs, a budget nut set for practicing trad placements.
Fit for the job 6/10 · Features and specs 7/10 · Build and materials 5/10 · Value 8/10
- + 12pcs give a wide spread of sizes for learning placements
- + Budget cost makes it a practice set for ground school
- + Useful for building anchors in top-rope setups
- - Treat these budget nuts cautiously for real lead falls until proven
- - Check the size range covers the cracks you climb most
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Climbing Nest curates picks for US shoppers. Scores are our editorial assessment. We may earn a commission from links on this page.