The Best Cam Sets
Updated How we research
Black Diamond Camalot C4 #1 Red
Black Diamond's Camalot C4 #1 in red, a staple finger-to-hand cam for trad climbers building a rack.
Black Diamond Camalot Size 0.4 Climbing Active Protection
Black Diamond's Camalot in size 0.4, a single cam for thin hand cracks and finger cracks on trad routes.
Cams changed trad climbing by protecting the parallel cracks that nuts cannot, and a modern rack is built around them. They are also the most expensive gear decision most climbers make, so the details deserve attention. Designs differ in camming range per piece, head width for shallow placements, stem construction, trigger feel, and how much each unit weighs when you are carrying doubles up a long pitch. We weighed resistance to walking, usable range, weight, trigger action with a pumped grip, durability of lobes and slings, and cost of completing a set. Climbers buying a first rack should start with a single set from a proven lineup and learn its colors cold. Crack climbers heading to splitter country will want doubles in the middle sizes, and alpine climbers should look at the lighter options, accepting slightly narrower range in exchange for grams saved.
The short version
We compared 8 picks. Our scores range from 7.0 to 8.3 out of 10.
- Best overall:Black Diamond Camalot C4 #1 Red. Highest overall score in this guide at 8.3/10.
- Also great value:CAMP Nylon TriCam #2.0 Climbing Passive Protection. Value score of 9/10, overall 7.4/10.
- Solid build:Black Diamond Camalot Size 0.4 Climbing Active Protection. Build and materials score of 9/10, overall 7.8/10.
- Feature-rich:Wild Country Friend Rock Climbing Cams 0.3 Lightweight Double-Axle Active Protection. Features score of 7/10, overall 7.8/10.
Scores are our editorial assessment, not customer ratings. How we score
- 1.Black Diamond Camalot C4 #1 Red8.3/10See on AmazonCheck price
- 2.Black Diamond Camalot Size 0.4 Climbing Active Protection7.8/10See on AmazonCheck price
- 3.Wild Country Friend Rock Climbing Cams 0.3 Lightweight Double-Axle Active Protection7.8/10See on AmazonCheck price
- 4.Metolius Master Cam Climbing Active Protection7.5/10See on AmazonCheck price
- 5.Metolius Master Cam7.5/10See on AmazonCheck price
- 6.CAMP Nylon TriCam #2.0 Climbing Passive Protection7.4/10See on AmazonCheck price
- 7.Metolius Ultralight Power Cam #07.0/10See on AmazonCheck price
- 8.Metolius Ultralight Fat Cam #5 Black7.0/10See on AmazonCheck price
| # | Product | Our score | Price | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Black Diamond Camalot C4 #1 Red | 8.3/10 | See on Amazon | Check price |
| 2 | Black Diamond Camalot Size 0.4 Climbing Active Protection | 7.8/10 | See on Amazon | Check price |
| 3 | Wild Country Friend Rock Climbing Cams 0.3 Lightweight Double-Axle Active Protection | 7.8/10 | See on Amazon | Check price |
| 4 | Metolius Master Cam Climbing Active Protection | 7.5/10 | See on Amazon | Check price |
| 5 | Metolius Master Cam | 7.5/10 | See on Amazon | Check price |
| 6 | CAMP Nylon TriCam #2.0 Climbing Passive Protection | 7.4/10 | See on Amazon | Check price |
| 7 | Metolius Ultralight Power Cam #0 | 7.0/10 | See on Amazon | Check price |
| 8 | Metolius Ultralight Fat Cam #5 Black | 7.0/10 | See on Amazon | Check price |
#1Black Diamond's Camalot C4 #1 in red, a staple finger-to-hand cam for trad climbers building a rack.
Fit for the job 9/10 · Features and specs 7/10 · Build and materials 9/10 · Value 8/10
- + C4 design offers wide range and reliable holding power
- + Red size #1 is one of the most used cams on many routes
- + Black Diamond durability for frequent trad climbing
- - Single cam requires buying several sizes for a rack
- - Heavier than some ultralight cam designs
#2Black Diamond's Camalot in size 0.4, a single cam for thin hand cracks and finger cracks on trad routes.
Fit for the job 8/10 · Features and specs 7/10 · Build and materials 9/10 · Value 7/10
- + Camalot design is a benchmark for reliable active protection
- + Size 0.4 fits thin cracks common on many trad routes
- + Durable build handles years of trad use
- - Single cam, so it is one piece of a larger rack
- - Premium price per piece compared with budget cams
#3Wild Country's Friend cam in size 0.3, a lightweight double-axle cam for thin cracks.
Fit for the job 8/10 · Features and specs 7/10 · Build and materials 9/10 · Value 7/10
- + Double-axle design gives a wider range than single-axle cams
- + Size 0.3 fits thin cracks where nuts may not hold
- + Lightweight build reduces rack weight
- - Single cam only, so a full rack needs many sizes
- - Double-axle cams can be bulkier in very thin cracks
#4Metolius Master Cam active protection, a single-stem cam known for flexible stems in thin cracks.
Fit for the job 8/10 · Features and specs 6/10 · Build and materials 8/10 · Value 8/10
- + Flexible stem works well in horizontal cracks
- + Master Cam design is popular for aid and trad climbing
- + Metolius offers good range and durability
- - Check the size fits the crack widths you climb most
- - Narrow head can be less stable in flaring cracks
#5Metolius Master Cam, a single-stem cam with a slim profile for thin cracks and aid placements.
Fit for the job 8/10 · Features and specs 6/10 · Build and materials 8/10 · Value 8/10
- + Slim head fits narrow cracks and pin scars
- + Flexible stem reduces walking in horizontal placements
- + Useful for aid and trad climbers who need finesse
- - Check the size fits the crack widths you climb most
- - Narrow head may be less stable in wider or flaring cracks
#6CAMP's nylon TriCam #2.0, a passive protection piece that fits pockets and irregular cracks.
Fit for the job 7/10 · Features and specs 6/10 · Build and materials 8/10 · Value 9/10
- + TriCam shape fits pockets and flares where cams struggle
- + Lightweight passive piece adds versatility to a rack
- + CAMP design is proven for trad climbers
- - TriCams take practice to place and clean correctly
- - Not as fast to place as a spring-loaded cam
#7Metolius Ultralight Power Cam #0, a light cam for very thin cracks where nuts may not seat.
Fit for the job 7/10 · Features and specs 6/10 · Build and materials 8/10 · Value 7/10
- + Ultralight build saves weight on long routes
- + Size #0 fits thin finger cracks
- + Color-coded for quick selection on the rack
- - Small cam has lower holding power than larger sizes
- - Single cam only, not a full set
#8Metolius Ultralight Fat Cam #5 in black, a larger cam for wide hand cracks and off-width sections.
Fit for the job 7/10 · Features and specs 6/10 · Build and materials 8/10 · Value 7/10
- + Size #5 fits wider cracks where smaller cams are useless
- + Ultralight design keeps weight lower for its size
- + Black color code helps spot it quickly
- - Large cam is bulky on the harness
- - Not needed on routes with only thin cracks
Before you buy: trade-offs we flagged
No pick is perfect. These are the main compromises we noted for the top products in this guide, so you can check they will not matter for you.
- Single cam requires buying several sizes for a rack (Black Diamond Camalot C4 #1 Red)
- Single cam, so it is one piece of a larger rack (Black Diamond Camalot Size 0.4 Climbing...)
- Single cam only, so a full rack needs many sizes (Wild Country Friend Rock Climbing Cams 0.3...)
- Check the size fits the crack widths you climb most (Metolius Master Cam Climbing Active Protection)
- Narrow head may be less stable in wider or flaring cracks (Metolius Master Cam)
- TriCams take practice to place and clean correctly (CAMP Nylon TriCam #2.0 Climbing Passive...)
Frequently asked questions
›What is the best choice among the best cam sets?
Black Diamond Camalot C4 #1 Red is our top overall pick. Black Diamond's Camalot C4 #1 in red, a staple finger-to-hand cam for trad climbers building a rack. It earns our score of 8.3/10, based on fit for the job, features, build and value.
›What is a good budget option?
Black Diamond Camalot Size 0.4 Climbing Active Protection is the strongest low-cost pick in this guide. Black Diamond's Camalot in size 0.4, a single cam for thin hand cracks and finger cracks on trad routes.
›How much should I expect to spend?
Picks in this guide span See on Amazon price bands (roughly: $ = under $30, $$ = $30 to $100, $$$ = over $100). We never display exact prices because they change constantly, so the buttons above always show Amazon's current price.
›How were these products chosen?
We shortlist products that fit the job this guide solves and compare their published specifications, such as size, capacity, materials and what is included. Each pick gets an editorial score out of 10 for fit, features, build and value, and we write the pros and cons from those details. Our score is not an Amazon customer rating. We earn a commission if you buy through our links, which never affects the ranking.
Climbing Nest independently selects every product; we may earn a commission from links above.
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