EDELRID Mega Jul Belay Device Review (2026)

Who the Mega Jul fits best

Edelrid built the Mega Jul for climbers who want assisted braking without carrying the weight and bulk of a cam-based device like a GRIGRI. It is aimed squarely at alpinists and multi-pitch climbers who need one tool that belays a leader with some braking help, belays a second in guide mode off the anchor, and rappels on double or twin strands for the way down. That third job, rappelling two ropes, is something cam-based assisted devices cannot do, which is the main reason climbers moving over long alpine routes reach for a tube-style device like this one instead. Gym climbers or single-pitch sport climbers who never rappel on double strands may not need that versatility and could find a GRIGRI simpler to learn.

How the passive assist works

The Mega Jul is built from stainless steel and is approved for ropes from about 7.8 to 10 millimeters, covering most modern half and single ropes. Edelrid calls it a passive assisted braking device because there is no moving cam; instead the device's geometry increases the bite on the rope when a fall or hard catch loads it, then it can lock off on its own so the belayer is not fighting to hold a resting partner. An extra eyelet on the body lets you clip a carabiner to release the device in follower mode, similar in concept to the release hole on a Reverso, so you can lower a second who has weighted the rope from the anchor.

Learning the rope feed and caring for it

New users of the Mega Jul often notice the rope feels stickier feeding out than on a plain tube device, and Edelrid and independent reviewers both describe a specific thumb technique that smooths this out once practiced. Guide mode setup off an anchor follows the same logic as other tube devices in this category: clip the small carabiner through the release eyelet, then learn how much force it takes to unweight and lower a second safely. Being stainless steel rather than aluminum, it is heavier per gram than an aluminum tube but also more resistant to grooving from repeated rope wear. Rinse off grit and chalk after dirty days and check the braking surfaces periodically for sharp-edged wear.

How it stacks up against the GRIGRI + and Reverso

Against the Petzl GRIGRI +, the Mega Jul gives up the true cam mechanism and dedicated top rope mode but gains the ability to rappel on double ropes and shaves real weight off the harness, making it the better pick for multi-pitch and alpine days. Against the Petzl Reverso 4, a similarly light guide-mode tube device, the Mega Jul adds passive assisted braking that the Reverso does not have, at the cost of a rope feed that needs more practice to feel natural. Climbers choosing between the two are often weighing familiar, unassisted friction against a bit of extra braking help in a similarly compact package.

Verdict and who should pick something else

Pick the Mega Jul if you climb multi-pitch or alpine routes and want one light device that offers some braking assistance while still rappelling on double ropes. It rewards climbers willing to spend a session or two learning its specific feed technique. If you mostly belay in a gym or on single-pitch sport routes and want the most intuitive assisted braking available, the Petzl GRIGRI + or standard GRIGRI is a more direct choice. Climbers who never need double-rope rappels and want maximum stopping power should also weigh a cam-based device over this passive design.

Frequently asked questions