Downturned shoe

A downturned shoe is shaped so the toe curls downward and the whole shoe has a banana like camber, which pulls the foot into a claw position. That shape concentrates power onto the big toe and helps the foot hook and grip small holds on steep, overhanging walls where a flatter shoe would struggle to stay engaged.

The tradeoff is comfort and versatility. Aggressive downturned shoes are usually sized tight and are tiring to wear for long periods, which makes them a poor choice for all day multi-pitch routes or a first pair of shoes, but a strong choice for short, powerful boulder problems and steep sport climbing.

Beginners often reach for a downturned shoe because it looks like what strong climbers wear, then find their feet cramp before the actual climbing gets hard. A flatter, more neutral shoe usually serves new climbers better while they build foot strength and technique, with a downturned model added later once steep climbing becomes a regular part of their climbing.