Personal anchor system

A personal anchor system, usually shortened to PAS, is a length of webbing or chain sewn into multiple loops that clips from a climber's harness to an anchor point, letting them stay attached while transitioning tasks like cleaning a sport route or setting up a rappel. It removes the need to tie in directly with the rope for every anchor connection.

Design matters here: some early daisy chain style slings were not rated to catch a real fall and were only meant for body weight, which caused confusion and some serious accidents. Purpose built personal anchor systems sold today are tested for fall loads within stated limits, but should still be used the way the manufacturer intends rather than assumed to work like a piece of dynamic rope.

Getting comfortable transitioning on and off a PAS, checking that it is actually locked into the anchor before weighting it, and understanding its rated limits are all things worth learning directly from an instructor rather than piecing together from general climbing knowledge. A PAS is one tool among several for anchor connections, alongside using the rope itself with a clove hitch.