Independent buying guides for climbing gear

Glossary

Assisted-braking device

A belay device that adds a camming or pinching action to help hold the rope during a fall.

An assisted-braking device is a belay device built with a mechanism, often a camming lever or pinch point, that helps grip the rope when it moves quickly through the device, such as during a fall. This gives the belayer extra help beyond hand strength alone in stopping a fall.

The name causes confusion because it sounds hands-free, but it is not. Manufacturers and instructors are consistent that the brake hand must stay on the rope at all times, since the assist can fail to engage in certain situations, such as a slow controlled lower or an awkward grip on the device. Assisted-braking devices also tend to make lowering a heavier climber feel different than a tube style device, which takes some practice to get smooth.

When comparing models, look at how the rope loads for lowering, how easy the device is to feed slack quickly for a leader clipping fast, and whether it is rated for your rope diameters. Get instruction from a qualified belayer or instructor before using one for real climbing, since the release and feeding technique differs from a plain tube device.

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