# Best Climbing Training Books Source: https://climbingnest.com/best/best-climbing-training-books Updated: 2026-09-14 Publisher: Climbing Nest. Our score is an editorial rating out of 10 (fit 35%, features 25%, build 20%, value 20%), not a customer rating. Method: https://climbingnest.com/how-we-research#our-score Good information is the cheapest training upgrade in climbing, and books still beat scattered videos for building a coherent picture. The classics cover different ground: some are systematic programming manuals, others focus on movement technique, tactics, or the mental game. They also disagree with each other in places, which is worth knowing before you commit a season to one author's plan. Depth and readability vary as much as the subject matter does. We weighed evidence quality, practical usability, and how well each book serves its intended reader rather than ranking apples against oranges. Newer climbers gain most from technique and movement titles, since strength is rarely their bottleneck. Intermediate climbers stuck on a plateau are the natural audience for the programming manuals, and the injury-focused titles deserve space on any shelf. Read skeptically, apply gradually, and let your fingers veto any timeline a book proposes. ## Picks ### 1. The Climbing Bible: Technical, Physical and Mental Training for Rock Climbing by Martin Mobraten and Stian Christophersen Our score: 9.1/10 (Fit for the job 10/10 · Features and specs 8/10 · Build and materials 9/10 · Value 9/10) The Climbing Bible by Martin Mobraten and Stian Christophersen, covering technical, physical and mental training. Pros: - Balances technique, physical training and mindset in one book - Clear visuals help readers learn movement concepts - Widely recommended for climbers moving past beginner level Cons: - Large book is not a quick reference at the crag - Covers many topics, so advanced athletes may want deeper specifics Details: https://climbingnest.com/product/1912560704 ### 2. The Rock Climber's Training Manual by Michael L. Anderson PhD and Mark Anderson Our score: 8.6/10 (Fit for the job 9/10 · Features and specs 8/10 · Build and materials 8/10 · Value 9/10) The Rock Climber's Training Manual by Michael and Mark Anderson, a structured periodization guide for committed sport climbers. Pros: - Lays out season-long training phases instead of random workouts - Written by climbers who used the system on their own hard projects - Detailed hangboard and campus protocols suit data-minded trainers Cons: - Dense, program-heavy approach can overwhelm casual gym climbers - Assumes access to a home board or well-equipped training space Details: https://climbingnest.com/product/0989515613 ### 3. Training for Climbing: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance by Eric Horst Our score: 8.6/10 (Fit for the job 9/10 · Features and specs 8/10 · Build and materials 8/10 · Value 9/10) Training for Climbing by Eric Horst, a broad guide to strength, technique and mental skills for improving performance. Pros: - Covers physical, technical and mental training in one reference - Eric Horst is one of the most widely read climbing training authors - Useful for climbers from first-year boulderers to seasoned leaders Cons: - Broad scope means individual topics get less depth than niche books - Some training ideas have evolved since earlier editions Details: https://climbingnest.com/product/1493017616 ### 4. The Science of Climbing Training: An Evidence-Based Guide by Sergio Consuegra Our score: 8.4/10 (Fit for the job 9/10 · Features and specs 8/10 · Build and materials 8/10 · Value 8/10) The Science of Climbing Training by Sergio Consuegra, an evidence-based guide that links research to practical training. Pros: - Evidence-based approach helps separate myths from proven methods - Explains why protocols work, not just what to do - Great for coaches and climbers who like understanding physiology Cons: - Scientific detail can feel heavy for casual readers - Less focus on climbing technique and movement skills Details: https://climbingnest.com/product/183981182X ### 5. Beastmaking: A Fingers-First Approach to Becoming a Better Climber by Ned Feehally Our score: 8.4/10 (Fit for the job 9/10 · Features and specs 8/10 · Build and materials 8/10 · Value 8/10) Beastmaking by Ned Feehally, a fingers-first approach to becoming a better climber from a leading boulderer. Pros: - Finger strength focus suits boulderers and hangboard users - Author's bouldering background adds practical credibility - Clear explanations of grip types and finger training Cons: - Narrow focus on fingers covers less endurance training - Hangboard exercises need a board to put into practice Details: https://climbingnest.com/product/1839810092 ### 6. The Climbing Bible: Practical Exercises - Technique and Strength Training for Climbing Our score: 8.4/10 (Fit for the job 9/10 · Features and specs 8/10 · Build and materials 8/10 · Value 8/10) The Climbing Bible: Practical Exercises, a companion book of technique and strength drills for climbers. Pros: - Practical exercise format turns theory into session plans - Technique drills help climbers who plateau on movement - Complements the original Climbing Bible well Cons: - Works best alongside the first book for context - Exercise-heavy content offers less background explanation Details: https://climbingnest.com/product/1839811048 ### 7. 9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes by Dave MacLeod Our score: 8.3/10 (Fit for the job 9/10 · Features and specs 7/10 · Build and materials 8/10 · Value 9/10) 9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes by Dave MacLeod, a candid look at the habits that stall climbing progress. Pros: - Focuses on common mistakes rather than generic training plans - Dave MacLeod brings experience from hard trad, sport and winter climbing - Thought-provoking read that changes how you plan sessions Cons: - Few ready-made workout plans for readers who want a program - Opinionated style may not suit everyone Details: https://climbingnest.com/product/095642810X ### 8. The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide by Eric Horst Our score: 8.0/10 (Fit for the job 8/10 · Features and specs 8/10 · Build and materials 8/10 · Value 8/10) The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide by Eric Horst, an exercise-by-exercise manual for strength and conditioning. Pros: - Exercise-focused format makes it easy to build a gym session - Covers antagonist and core work that climbers often skip - Pairs well with Horst's broader training book Cons: - Less guidance on technique and tactics than all-round guides - Photo-based exercise descriptions still need careful form checks Details: https://climbingnest.com/product/1493017632 As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.