# The Best Cam Sets Source: https://climbingnest.com/best/best-cam-sets Updated: 2026-09-15 Publisher: Climbing Nest. Our score is an editorial rating out of 10 (fit 35%, features 25%, build 20%, value 20%), not a customer rating. Method: https://climbingnest.com/how-we-research#our-score Cams changed trad climbing by protecting the parallel cracks that nuts cannot, and a modern rack is built around them. They are also the most expensive gear decision most climbers make, so the details deserve attention. Designs differ in camming range per piece, head width for shallow placements, stem construction, trigger feel, and how much each unit weighs when you are carrying doubles up a long pitch. We weighed resistance to walking, usable range, weight, trigger action with a pumped grip, durability of lobes and slings, and cost of completing a set. Climbers buying a first rack should start with a single set from a proven lineup and learn its colors cold. Crack climbers heading to splitter country will want doubles in the middle sizes, and alpine climbers should look at the lighter options, accepting slightly narrower range in exchange for grams saved. ## Picks ### 1. Black Diamond Camalot C4 #1 Red Our score: 8.3/10 (Fit for the job 9/10 · Features and specs 7/10 · Build and materials 9/10 · Value 8/10) Black Diamond's Camalot C4 #1 in red, a staple finger-to-hand cam for trad climbers building a rack. Pros: - C4 design offers wide range and reliable holding power - Red size #1 is one of the most used cams on many routes - Black Diamond durability for frequent trad climbing Cons: - Single cam requires buying several sizes for a rack - Heavier than some ultralight cam designs Details: https://climbingnest.com/product/B01D4VV6MC ### 2. Black Diamond Camalot Size 0.4 Climbing Active Protection Our score: 7.8/10 (Fit for the job 8/10 · Features and specs 7/10 · Build and materials 9/10 · Value 7/10) Black Diamond's Camalot in size 0.4, a single cam for thin hand cracks and finger cracks on trad routes. Pros: - Camalot design is a benchmark for reliable active protection - Size 0.4 fits thin cracks common on many trad routes - Durable build handles years of trad use Cons: - Single cam, so it is one piece of a larger rack - Premium price per piece compared with budget cams Details: https://climbingnest.com/product/B0000AMKT4 ### 3. Wild Country Friend Rock Climbing Cams 0.3 Lightweight Double-Axle Active Protection Our score: 7.8/10 (Fit for the job 8/10 · Features and specs 7/10 · Build and materials 9/10 · Value 7/10) Wild Country's Friend cam in size 0.3, a lightweight double-axle cam for thin cracks. Pros: - Double-axle design gives a wider range than single-axle cams - Size 0.3 fits thin cracks where nuts may not hold - Lightweight build reduces rack weight Cons: - Single cam only, so a full rack needs many sizes - Double-axle cams can be bulkier in very thin cracks Details: https://climbingnest.com/product/B0CPQ8SJWK ### 4. Metolius Master Cam Climbing Active Protection Our score: 7.5/10 (Fit for the job 8/10 · Features and specs 6/10 · Build and materials 8/10 · Value 8/10) Metolius Master Cam active protection, a single-stem cam known for flexible stems in thin cracks. Pros: - Flexible stem works well in horizontal cracks - Master Cam design is popular for aid and trad climbing - Metolius offers good range and durability Cons: - Check the size fits the crack widths you climb most - Narrow head can be less stable in flaring cracks Details: https://climbingnest.com/product/B000X14S36 ### 5. Metolius Master Cam Our score: 7.5/10 (Fit for the job 8/10 · Features and specs 6/10 · Build and materials 8/10 · Value 8/10) Metolius Master Cam, a single-stem cam with a slim profile for thin cracks and aid placements. Pros: - Slim head fits narrow cracks and pin scars - Flexible stem reduces walking in horizontal placements - Useful for aid and trad climbers who need finesse Cons: - Check the size fits the crack widths you climb most - Narrow head may be less stable in wider or flaring cracks Details: https://climbingnest.com/product/B07CJ1TPKL ### 6. CAMP Nylon TriCam #2.0 Climbing Passive Protection Our score: 7.4/10 (Fit for the job 7/10 · Features and specs 6/10 · Build and materials 8/10 · Value 9/10) CAMP's nylon TriCam #2.0, a passive protection piece that fits pockets and irregular cracks. Pros: - TriCam shape fits pockets and flares where cams struggle - Lightweight passive piece adds versatility to a rack - CAMP design is proven for trad climbers Cons: - TriCams take practice to place and clean correctly - Not as fast to place as a spring-loaded cam Details: https://climbingnest.com/product/B000T28LSM ### 7. Metolius Ultralight Power Cam #0 Our score: 7.0/10 (Fit for the job 7/10 · Features and specs 6/10 · Build and materials 8/10 · Value 7/10) Metolius Ultralight Power Cam #0, a light cam for very thin cracks where nuts may not seat. Pros: - Ultralight build saves weight on long routes - Size #0 fits thin finger cracks - Color-coded for quick selection on the rack Cons: - Small cam has lower holding power than larger sizes - Single cam only, not a full set Details: https://climbingnest.com/product/B01EON8O3S ### 8. Metolius Ultralight Fat Cam #5 Black Our score: 7.0/10 (Fit for the job 7/10 · Features and specs 6/10 · Build and materials 8/10 · Value 7/10) Metolius Ultralight Fat Cam #5 in black, a larger cam for wide hand cracks and off-width sections. Pros: - Size #5 fits wider cracks where smaller cams are useless - Ultralight design keeps weight lower for its size - Black color code helps spot it quickly Cons: - Large cam is bulky on the harness - Not needed on routes with only thin cracks Details: https://climbingnest.com/product/B004N5FM2O As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.